Monday, May 5, 2014

BREWING THE PERFECT CUP OF TEA

What is the connection among terms like 'stylish', 'whiskery', 'character', 'bright cream' and 'flat'? These are typical expressions used by a tea taster to give his final verdict while identifying the quality of a product. The journey of the tea leaf from the garden to the cup cannot be complete until the tea taster gives his final verdict and identifies the quality of the product. His is the last word on the subtle distinctions between ordinary, fine and superlative teas. So terms like 'stylish' apply to a superior dry leaf appearance, 'acceptable' may have some flaws, while 'whiskery' would be taboo to buyers as it denotes some fibre content, says a new book "Chai: The Experience of Indian Tea" by Rekha Sarin and Rajan Kapoor. The infused leaf may be described in words like 'bright,' 'coppery', 'dull' or 'even' to denote the colour. The terms used for the brewed lea liquor are even more descriptive, says the book published by Niyogi. "The term 'body' denotes liquor with fullness and strength. 'Character', which is a most desirable quality, also encompasses an acknowledgement of the origin of the tea. A 'bright cream' obtained on cooling of the tea indicates a well-manufactured leaf. "A 'fruity' taste results from over-fermentation, and 'burnt' is undesirable as it occurs from extremely high temperatures during firing. 'Flat' would mean lacking in briskness because of faulty manufacture or storage," the book says. "Chai: The Experience of Indian Tea" is a pictorial journey through time, into the heartlands of tea, offering a varied selection of the universally popular brew. It affords a glimpse into the making of the cup that cheers - the locales, the people and the process – a visual treat for the tea connoisseur, the casual tea-lover, the tea industry enthusiast or the tourist looking for off-the-beat, unexplored, pristine holiday spots.
The heartlands of tea are spread over a beautiful and diverse geography that is intrinsic to this vast subcontinent. These regions yield a plethora of teas that result from the physical attributes of their varying habitats, each variety being incomparable in character. "Where else can you find the robust, rich and malty Assam teas with their zesty strength? Or the delightfully delicate and aromatic Darjeeling teas? Or the bright, full bodied teas from Nilgiris and the Western Ghats that come from the southern parts of the country? "Then again, regions like Dooars, Terai and Kangra Valley make their own significant contribution," the authors ask. The book also highlights the labour-intensive process of growing and plucking the leaf, the intricacies production, professional tea tasting, tea auctions and e-auctions, all of which reflect the vastness of the industry at work. According to the authors, tea is a way of life in India. "It permeates every strata of society and transcends all barriers of economic disparity – from the gleaming kitchens of the super-rich and upper middle class, whose 'khansama' or cook may bring out an impeccably set tea array, to the humble kitchen of the lower middle class where tea may be had in an unpretentious mug or glass; from the sparse hutment of the labourer, where it remains intrinsic to the shoestring food budget, to the slick corporate boardroom where business honchos make management decisions over a cuppa. Tea holds good everywhere," they say. Be it the snowy winter of the Himalayan states, or the inertia of the summer heat of the flat northern plains, or the indolence of the sultry monsoon humidity of the eastern region and the coastal ghats – every climatic belt provides a good reason for indulging in the reviving properties of the brew. The book also mentions some innovative recipes with tea. "Besides the archetypal tea preparations, including masala chai, nowadays tea bars and luxury hotels within India are blazing new trends by developing innovative tea recipes, taking benefit of the generous and accommodating disposition of the leaf," the authors say.

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